Is Europe Banning Retinol? Here's What's Happening To The Skincare Staple
The European Union is poised to introduce new regulations that will shake up the rules surrounding over-the-counter skincare and body care products. These measures specifically target the concentration of retinol—a derivative of Vitamin A celebrated for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties—as well as some troubling potential side effects.
In an upcoming shift that has sparked concern and curiosity among skincare enthusiasts and industry professionals alike, the European Union will adjust the limitations of Retinol concentrations to 0.3% in facial and hand care items, while body care products will see an even more strict cap at 0.05%. These new regulations will come into effect by June 2024, with a subsequent grace period extending up to 36 months.
The catalyst for these regulations can be traced back to ongoing evaluations by the European Union's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concerning the safety of Retinoids. Since 2012, the SCCS has voiced concerns that the cumulative exposure to Vitamin A—through diet, supplements, and topical skincare—could potentially surpass the upper safety limits, posing risks such as fetal abnormalities, as well as skin and liver complications. This has culminated in years-long scrutiny, ending with the recent decision to more strictly limit retinol in certain products rather than ban it, as some users on TikTok are suggesting.
It's important to note that this includes Retinol derivatives like Retinyl Acetate and Retinyl Palmitate, but excludes Retinal and Retinaldehyde from these restrictions. Interestingly, retinals (note the "a" instead of the "o") are actually the most potent form of Vitamin A, but the SCCS decided to leave retinals out of this new legislation due to a lack of data.
That said, the essence of this legislative move isn't to demonize Retinol or cast a shadow over its proven benefits. Retinol, especially in its over-the-counter formulations is loved for its ability to accelerate cell turnover, reorganize skin cells, and thereby diminish fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin texture. It also plays a significant role in evening out skin tone and managing acne breakouts.
The main concern stems from the overuse of Retinol across multiple sources, particularly for individuals with specific health considerations—such as pregnancy or liver conditions. The advice that these populations should avoid Retinoids and other fat-soluble vitamins is a smart and cautious approach, however, the new restrictions do seem excessive, as one user on Reddit suggested.
"If there's some kind of danger if you use a retinol product together with vitamin A supplements, then an easily noticeable warning label should be enough. A ban is a total overkill."
Reactions to these new regulations are mixed overall, with some expressing relief and others doubling down on their love for retinol.
"This makes me feel better about not using it!" shared one woman on TikTok, with many others agreeing.
"Not me at 27 having horrible skin until I started using retinol two years ago...I won't give it up!" replied another user.
Closing Thoughts
Ultimately, whether you want to use it is a personal choice, which is why it's good to know about its many proven benefits, as well as its risks and alternatives. You can find a list of Evie's favorite affordable retinol products here, as well as some recommendations for bakuchiol, a new ingredient that is making waves as the natural version of retinol.
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